Category: Washing Machines & Dryers

Most drying problems are caused by cautious design, sensors, or load conditions.

But sometimes, a dryer that isn’t drying is no longer making a decision — it’s failing to perform a basic function.

This article draws the line between normal behaviour and a genuine fault.

Normal under-drying vs real failure

Normal under-drying:

• clothes are warm
• moisture is reduced
• a second cycle helps
• behaviour is consistent

Real drying failure:

• clothes stay cold or barely warm
• moisture doesn’t change
• performance gets worse over time
• the dryer stops very quickly

Warmth is the key divider.

Clear signs a dryer has a fault

A dryer is likely faulty if any of the following are true:

Clothes are not warm at all

If clothes come out:

• cool
• barely changed
• as wet as they went in

…the dryer isn’t generating or transferring heat.

Drying performance steadily declines

If drying:

• used to work
• now requires more cycles
• and keeps getting worse

That points to a failing component, not cautious logic.

The dryer stops within minutes

If the dryer:

• starts
• then shuts off very quickly
• repeatedly

…it’s likely hitting a safety cutoff due to a fault.

Airflow feels weak or absent

If there’s:

• little air movement
• weak exhaust flow
• unusually quiet operation

Moisture can’t escape — drying will fail.

Burning or electrical smells appear

Smells indicate:

• overheating
• electrical strain
• insulation damage

This is not normal and should not be ignored.

Common faults when dryers stop drying

When drying truly fails, causes often include:

• heating element failure
• airflow blockage inside the machine
• failing thermostat or sensor
• motor or fan issues

At this stage, adjustment won’t fix it.

Why dryers don’t always show clear errors

Many dryers:

• attempt to protect themselves silently
• shut down before damage occurs
• don’t display detailed fault messages

That leaves users guessing.

Performance decline becomes the main clue.

The simple decision rule

Ask:

Is the dryer removing heat and moisture at all?

If yes → behaviour or setup issue

If no → mechanical or electrical fault

When it’s time to stop troubleshooting

It’s time to consider repair or replacement if:

• clothes never get warm
• cycles end almost immediately
• smells or heat buildup occur
• performance continues to degrade

Continuing to run a failing dryer risks:

• component damage
• fire hazards
• higher repair costs later

The calm conclusion

Most dryers that “don’t dry well” are behaving cautiously.

But a dryer that:

• produces no heat
• removes no moisture
• or worsens steadily

…has crossed from design choice into failure.

This is the point where intervention is justified.

Most long pauses in modern washing machines are deliberate.

But not all of them.

This article draws the boundary line — where normal control behaviour ends and a genuine problem begins.

Normal pauses vs abnormal pauses

A normal pause:

• has a reason
• eventually ends
• allows the cycle to complete

An abnormal pause:

• repeats endlessly
• prevents progress
• never resolves on its own

The difference is outcome, not duration.

Signs a pause is still normal

A pause is usually normal if:

• the machine resumes on its own
• the cycle eventually finishes
• the pause happens at different points
• results are consistent

Even very long pauses can be normal if progress continues.

Signs a pause is no longer normal

A pause may indicate a fault if any of the following apply:

The machine never moves past the same point

If it always pauses:

• before spin
• at the same minute mark
• during the same rinse

…and never completes the cycle, something is blocking progress.

The machine pauses indefinitely

If the machine:

• sits silent for an hour or more
• shows no change
• doesn’t resume without intervention

That’s no longer normal regulation.

Water remains inside the drum

If water is visibly:

• pooled
• sloshing
• trapped

…and the machine won’t continue, drainage has likely failed.

The pause is followed by an error

Error codes, flashing lights, or repeated resets signal:

• sensor failure
• pump problems
• control board intervention

The pause is now a symptom, not a decision.

Common causes when pauses become faults

When pauses are abnormal, the cause is often:

• drainage blockage
• pump failure
• sensor malfunction
• door lock failure
• control board interruption

At this point, the machine isn’t choosing to wait — it’s unable to proceed.

Why machines don’t always explain this clearly

Modern machines often:

• attempt self-correction repeatedly
• retry the same stage
• avoid throwing errors until necessary

This creates long, confusing pauses that feel ambiguous.

But repetition without progress is the key signal.

The simple diagnostic rule

Ask:

Is the machine making forward progress — or stuck in a loop?

Progress means normal behaviour.

Loops mean failure.

What to do when a pause crosses the line

If a pause is not normal:

• stop restarting the cycle repeatedly
• note where the pause happens
• check for obvious drainage issues
• then consider repair or support

Continuing to force cycles can worsen damage.

The calm conclusion

Most pauses are intentional.

But when a washing machine:

• cannot move past the same stage
• leaves water trapped
• or never resumes

…it has stopped regulating and started failing.

This is the point where ignoring it no longer helps.

Needing to run a dryer two or three times to get clothes fully dry feels inefficient — and often feels like something must be wrong.

In many cases, nothing is broken.

Modern dryers are designed to avoid overdrying, even if that means under-drying on the first pass.

Why one cycle often isn’t enough anymore

Older dryers aimed for:

• maximum dryness
• high heat
• fixed time

Modern dryers aim for:

• fabric protection
• lower temperatures
• energy efficiency
• reduced wear

That shift means they often stop before absolute dryness, especially with mixed or heavy loads.

Common normal reasons multiple cycles are needed

1. 

Mixed fabric loads

When thick and thin items are dried together:

• thin items dry quickly
• thick items trap moisture longer

The dryer stops when most items are dry, not the slowest one.

2. 

Lower heat strategies

Many modern dryers:

• use gentler heat
• cycle heat on and off
• rely more on airflow than temperature

This reduces shrinkage but slows moisture removal.

3. 

Moisture sensors ending the cycle early

Sensors may detect dryness on:

• exposed fabric surfaces
• lighter items

Once sensors are satisfied, the cycle ends — even if:

• seams
• waistbands
• towel edges

…are still damp.

4. 

Overloading

When the drum is too full:

• airflow drops
• moisture can’t escape efficiently
• drying becomes uneven

Running two lighter loads often dries faster than one heavy one.

Why running a second cycle works

A second cycle works because:

• moisture is more evenly distributed
• airflow improves
• sensors get clearer readings

The dryer hasn’t “failed” — conditions have simply changed.

When this behaviour is usually normal

Needing multiple cycles is usually normal if:

• clothes are warm after the first cycle
• a short second cycle finishes the job
• it happens mostly with towels or bedding
• performance is consistent over time

Many people adjust by:

• separating heavy items
• using timed cycles
• running shorter follow-up cycles

When multiple cycles may indicate a problem

This may suggest a fault if:

• clothes remain cold
• drying performance keeps worsening
• cycles stop very quickly
• lint buildup is excessive
• airflow feels weak

Those signs point to airflow or heating problems, not cautious design.

The key idea to keep in mind

Modern dryers are biased toward:

“Stop early rather than damage clothes.”

That bias shifts responsibility slightly back to the user — especially for load size and fabric mixing.

The calm takeaway

If a dryer:

• heats normally
• removes moisture gradually
• improves with a second cycle

…it is usually behaving as designed.

Multiple cycles are often the result of protection and efficiency, not failure.

A dryer that feels hot to the touch — especially on the sides or top — often causes immediate concern.

Heat on the exterior feels like something is wrong.

In most cases, it isn’t.

Some external warmth is a normal by-product of how dryers move heat, not a sign of failure.

Why dryers feel warm on the outside

Dryers work by:

• generating heat
• moving hot air through clothes
• venting moisture away

Not all of that heat disappears instantly.

Some of it:

• radiates through metal panels
• warms surrounding surfaces
• lingers after the cycle ends

Modern dryers are better insulated than older ones, but they are not heat-proof boxes.

Warmth escapes — by design.

Where external heat is usually normal

It’s usually normal for these areas to feel warm:

• the sides of the cabinet
• the top surface
• the door glass
• the area near the exhaust outlet

Warm does not mean dangerous.

Why heat feels more noticeable now

Several modern design choices make heat more obvious:

Higher internal efficiency

More heat stays inside the system longer, rather than being blasted out immediately.

Condenser and heat-pump designs

These dryers recycle heat internally, which can raise cabinet temperature compared to older vented models.

Longer cycles at lower heat

Instead of short, very hot bursts, modern dryers often:

• run longer
• maintain steady warmth
• distribute heat over time

That makes the outside feel warm for longer.

When exterior heat is usually normal

External warmth is usually normal if:

• the dryer finishes its cycle
• clothes are warm but not scorching
• there’s no burning smell
• the heat fades after the cycle ends

A warm cabinet during or just after drying is expected behaviour.

When exterior heat may indicate a problem

Heat may indicate an issue if:

• the dryer is too hot to touch
• heat builds up rapidly
• a burning or electrical smell appears
• the dryer shuts off unexpectedly
• the room becomes excessively hot

Those signs suggest restricted airflow or overheating, not normal heat transfer.

Airflow matters more than people realise

Dryers rely on airflow to:

• carry moisture away
• remove excess heat
• protect internal components

If airflow is reduced, heat:

• stays inside longer
• spreads into the cabinet
• feels more intense on the outside

That’s why blocked vents or filters can change how hot the dryer feels.

The simple rule

Ask:

Is the dryer warm — or alarmingly hot?

Warmth is normal.

Escalating heat is not.

The calm conclusion

A dryer that feels warm on the outside is usually:

• operating normally
• managing heat internally
• doing exactly what it was designed to do

External warmth alone is not a fault.

It’s a side effect of drying.

A dryer that shuts off before clothes are fully dry often feels like it’s malfunctioning.

In many cases, it isn’t failing — it’s ending the cycle deliberately.

Modern dryers decide when to stop based on conditions, not just time.

Why dryers stop early by design

Most modern dryers use:

• moisture sensors
• temperature limits
• safety cutoffs

If those systems decide the load is “complete” or that continuing would risk damage, the dryer will stop — even if clothes still feel damp.

The most common normal reasons for early stopping

1. 

Moisture sensors misreading thick items

Sensors often detect moisture on:

• exposed fabric surfaces
• metal components inside the drum

Once those areas are dry, the dryer may conclude the load is finished — even if:

• seams
• waistbands
• pockets

…are still damp.

2. 

Heat protection logic

If the dryer detects:

• restricted airflow
• rising internal temperature
• reduced heat dissipation

…it may end the cycle early to prevent overheating.

This can happen without any visible fault.

3. 

Energy-saving programs

Eco and sensor-based programs prioritise:

• lower temperatures
• reduced run time

They aim for “dry enough”, not “bone dry”.

That mismatch causes frustration.

4. 

Partial loads

Very small loads can:

• dry unevenly
• confuse moisture sensors

The dryer may stop too soon because it can’t get consistent readings.

Why restarting often “fixes” it

Running a second short cycle often works because:

• remaining moisture is concentrated
• airflow improves
• sensors read more accurately

That doesn’t mean the dryer failed the first time.

It means the conditions changed.

When early stopping is usually normal

Early stopping is usually normal if:

• clothes are warm
• a second cycle finishes drying
• it happens more with thick items
• timed cycles behave more predictably

Many people prefer timed drying for this reason.

When early stopping may indicate a problem

This may indicate a fault if:

• the dryer stops within minutes
• clothes remain cold
• drying performance is worsening over time
• the dryer frequently trips safety cutoffs

Those cases suggest airflow or heating system failure, not sensor choice.

The key difference to understand

A dryer stopping early doesn’t mean:

“It gave up.”

It usually means:

“The dryer decided continuing wasn’t necessary — or safe.”

That decision can be wrong for your expectations, but not wrong in design terms.

The practical takeaway

If you want predictability:

• use smaller loads
• separate heavy fabrics
• use timed cycles when needed

Sensor-based programs trade certainty for protection.

A dryer that runs normally but leaves clothes damp is one of the most frustrating appliance behaviours.

It feels like a clear failure.

In many cases, it isn’t.

Modern dryers often intentionally reduce drying performance under certain conditions to protect fabrics, manage heat, or save energy.

⸻

Why “running” doesn’t always mean “drying”

Older dryers worked on a simple rule:

• heat + time = dry clothes

Modern dryers work differently.

They monitor:

• moisture levels

• temperature

• airflow

• fabric type

If conditions aren’t right, the dryer may:

• lower heat

• shorten active drying

• end the cycle early

From the outside, it looks like it gave up.

In reality, it made a decision.

⸻

The most common normal reasons clothes stay damp

1. Moisture-sensing logic

Many dryers stop when sensors think:

• clothes are “dry enough”

• remaining moisture is within tolerance

Thicker items can still feel damp even when sensors are satisfied.

⸻

2. Mixed fabric loads

Dryers struggle with:

• towels mixed with light clothing

• thick seams alongside thin fabrics

Lighter items dry quickly.

Heavier ones don’t.

The dryer stops for the majority, not the slowest item.

⸻

3. Lower heat strategies

To reduce energy use and fabric damage, modern dryers often:

• use lower peak temperatures

• cycle heat on and off

• rely on longer airflow periods

This protects clothes — but reduces drying intensity.

⸻

4. Overloading

When the drum is too full:

• airflow is restricted

• moisture can’t escape efficiently

The dryer still runs, but drying effectiveness drops sharply.

⸻

Why this feels worse than older dryers

Older dryers:

• overheated

• overdried

• shrank clothes

They felt effective because they were aggressive.

Modern dryers are designed to avoid damage, even if that means:

• extra cycles

• slightly damp results

• more user involvement

⸻

When poor drying is usually normal

It’s usually normal if:

• clothes are mostly dry

• a second short cycle finishes the job

• it happens more with heavy loads

• sensor-based programs are used

Many people switch to:

• timed cycles

• smaller loads

…to regain predictability.

⸻

When poor drying may indicate a problem

This may point to a fault if:

• clothes are barely warm

• drying performance keeps getting worse

• lint buildup is excessive

• the dryer shuts off unusually quickly

Those situations suggest airflow or heating failure, not intentional control.

⸻

The key distinction

Ask:

Is the dryer being cautious — or ineffective?

Cautious dryers still warm clothes and reduce moisture.

Faulty dryers don’t.

⸻

The calm conclusion

A dryer that runs but doesn’t fully dry is often:

• protecting fabrics

• responding to sensors

• working within efficiency limits

It feels underpowered — but it’s usually behaving as designed.

New or unfamiliar noises from a washing machine often trigger immediate concern.

But most noises that appear mid-cycle are normal — especially on modern machines.

What’s changed isn’t reliability.

It’s how much you can hear the machine thinking.

Why modern machines make more varied sounds

Older machines had:

• fewer speeds
• fewer sensors
• fewer adjustments mid-cycle

Modern machines constantly change:

• drum speed
• direction of rotation
• water movement
• motor load

Each change can sound different.

So instead of one steady noise, you hear a range of sounds.

Common normal noises — and what they mean

Clicking or soft knocking

Usually caused by:

• drum reversing direction
• load redistribution
• internal relays switching

This often happens before spinning or during balance checks.

Humming or low buzzing

Often the sound of:

• the drain pump running
• the motor holding position
• water circulation systems

It can continue even when the drum isn’t moving.

Sloshing or rushing water

Normal during:

• rinses
• drainage checks
• partial refills

Water doesn’t always move in obvious stages anymore.

Brief whirring or acceleration sounds

These happen when the machine:

• tests spin speed
• ramps up slowly
• aborts a spin attempt

Short bursts are normal. Sudden sustained noise is not.

Why noises appear at different points each wash

Noise depends on:

• load size
• fabric type
• water level
• balance
• cycle chosen

That means the same wash program can sound different on different days.

Inconsistency feels like a fault.

It’s usually just adaptation.

Why new noises don’t always mean wear

People often think:

“It didn’t make that noise before — so something must be wrong.”

But modern machines:

• change behaviour as software updates
• adjust patterns as components age
• respond differently to different detergents and loads

New does not automatically mean bad.

When mid-cycle noises are usually normal

They’re usually normal if:

• the noise is brief or rhythmic
• it changes rather than gets worse
• the cycle completes normally
• there’s no burning smell or vibration

Odd but controlled sounds are part of normal operation.

When noises may indicate a problem

Noise may indicate a fault if it is:

• loud metal grinding
• constant banging
• high-pitched squealing
• getting progressively worse each cycle

Those sounds suggest mechanical wear, not control behaviour.

The useful rule of thumb

Ask yourself:

Is the noise part of a process — or a sign of strain?

Process noises:

• start and stop
• change character
• come and go

Failure noises:

• persist
• worsen
• dominate the cycle

The key takeaway

Modern washing machines make more noise because they do more adjusting.

Hearing those adjustments doesn’t mean something is wrong.

It means the machine is actively managing the wash.

A washing machine door that stays locked long after you expect it to open can feel worrying — especially if the cycle has finished.

In most cases, the lock is doing exactly what it’s meant to do.

Why doors stay locked after the cycle ends

Modern washing machines will not unlock the door until they’re certain it’s safe.

That means confirming:

• the drum has stopped moving
• water has fully drained
• internal temperature is safe
• pressure inside the drum is normal

Until those checks pass, the door stays locked.

The most common reason: residual water

Even when you can’t see water, the machine may detect:

• moisture at the base of the drum
• incomplete drainage
• pressure in the system

If any water remains, the lock stays engaged.

This prevents:

• flooding
• sudden water release
• damage to internal seals

Temperature matters more than people realise

If a wash involved:

• hot water
• a heater element
• a long cycle

…the machine may delay unlocking until:

• internal components cool
• sensors confirm safe temperature

This can take several minutes — sometimes longer.

Silence doesn’t mean it’s ready.

Why the lock delay feels excessive

Older machines unlocked almost immediately.

Modern machines prioritise:

• safety standards
• liability protection
• component longevity

That makes them feel cautious — even overprotective.

But a locked door is not a sign of failure by itself.

When long lock times are usually normal

Long lock times are normal if:

• the door eventually unlocks
• no error message appears
• the machine otherwise completes cycles
• this happens more after hot or heavy washes

Waiting 2–5 minutes is common.

Longer delays can happen after high-temperature cycles.

When a locked door may indicate a problem

A locked door may indicate an issue if:

• it stays locked for hours
• the machine has power but won’t respond
• water is visibly trapped inside
• an error code appears

Those situations point to drainage or sensor failure, not normal safety behaviour.

The important distinction

A locked door means:

The machine has not yet decided it’s safe.

It does not mean:

The machine is broken.

Safety systems don’t rush.

A washing machine that keeps stopping and starting can feel unreliable or faulty.

In most cases, this behaviour is intentional control, not failure.

Modern machines no longer run in a smooth, continuous way.

They operate in short decision cycles.

Why stopping and starting is normal now

Modern washing machines constantly check:

• load balance
• water level
• motor strain
• temperature
• vibration

Instead of running blindly, they:

• start
• stop
• reassess
• adjust
• continue

From the outside, this looks like hesitation.

From the inside, it’s regulation.

Common normal reasons for stop–start behaviour

1. 

Load redistribution

If clothes shift unevenly, the machine will:

• pause
• rotate slowly
• attempt to rebalance
• then resume spinning

This may happen several times in one cycle.

2. 

Controlled motor protection

Motors are protected from:

• overheating
• excessive strain
• sudden load changes

Short stops allow the motor to cool and reset.

3. 

Water level and drainage checks

Between stages, the machine may:

• wait for water to drain fully
• confirm sensors have reset
• prevent spinning against water resistance

Stopping is part of that confirmation.

4. 

Eco cycle logic

Energy-efficient cycles deliberately:

• break work into segments
• reduce continuous power draw
• spread energy use over time

That produces a stop–start pattern.

Why this feels worse than it is

People expect:

• steady motion
• predictable timing
• continuous sound

Stop–start behaviour feels like:

• indecision
• malfunction
• something “catching”

But modern machines don’t need to look confident to work correctly.

When stop–start behaviour is usually normal

This behaviour is normal if:

• the cycle eventually finishes
• no error codes appear
• the machine doesn’t stall permanently
• results are acceptable

It’s especially common:

• before spinning
• during heavy loads
• on mixed fabric washes

When stop–start behaviour may indicate a fault

It may indicate a problem if:

• the machine never progresses past the same point
• it stops and never resumes
• loud mechanical noises accompany each stop
• an error code appears repeatedly

Those cases suggest failure, not regulation.

The core idea to remember

A modern washing machine doesn’t “commit” to actions.

It:

• tests
• pauses
• corrects
• then proceeds

Stopping and starting is often the machine avoiding damage, not causing it.

Many people notice the same thing the first time they use a modern washing machine:

“This used to take an hour. Why is it nearly three?”

It feels inefficient.

It feels worse than older machines.

It often feels broken.

In most cases, it isn’t.

Longer wash cycles are a design choice, not a fault.

Older machines cleaned with force

Modern machines clean with time

Older washing machines relied on:

• hotter water
• more water
• stronger agitation
• faster spinning

They cleaned clothes by being aggressive.

Modern machines are designed to:

• use less energy
• use less water
• protect fabrics
• meet efficiency regulations

To compensate, they clean more slowly and deliberately.

Time replaces force.

What actually adds time to modern cycles

1. Lower water temperatures

Heating water uses a lot of energy.

Many modern washes:

• heat water gradually
• use lower target temperatures
• maintain temperature for longer

Cleaning still happens — just more slowly.

2. 

Reduced water levels

Using less water means:

• detergent works differently
• rinsing takes longer
• more drum movement is needed

Extra time replaces extra water.

3. 

Load sensing

Modern machines adjust the cycle based on:

• weight of clothes
• fabric absorbency
• moisture retention

If the load is:

• heavier than expected
• more absorbent
• unevenly distributed

…the machine extends the cycle rather than rushing it.

4. 

Extended rinse stages

Instead of one aggressive rinse, machines often use:

• multiple gentle rinses
• pauses between rinses
• slower spins to protect fibres

This improves fabric care, but adds time.

Why the display time often changes

Many machines show:

• an estimated time at the start
• then adjust as the cycle runs

If the time jumps up or down, it doesn’t mean something has gone wrong.

It means the machine has learned more about the load.

This can feel unsettling if you expect the timer to be fixed.

Eco modes are the slowest — by design

Eco programs often:

• run the longest
• feel the weakest
• appear inefficient

They save energy by:

• using lower heat
• spreading work over more time
• avoiding peak power draw

They cost less to run, but feel worse to use.

That mismatch causes a lot of confusion.

When long cycles are usually normal

Long wash times are normal if:

• clothes come out clean
• water drains properly
• the cycle eventually finishes
• no error codes appear

A 2–4 hour cycle can be completely normal on modern machines.

When long cycles may indicate a problem

Long cycles may indicate an issue if:

• times keep increasing every wash
• the machine never reaches spin
• water is left inside at the end
• cycles run indefinitely without finishing

Those situations suggest the machine is failing to complete a stage, not deliberately extending it.

They’re covered separately.

The key trade-off to understand

Modern machines prioritise:

• efficiency
• fabric protection
• regulation compliance

Not speed.

If speed matters more than energy use, a non-eco or quick program often behaves closer to older machines — at a higher running cost.

The simple rule

If the machine:

• finishes the cycle
• cleans the clothes
• doesn’t show errors

Then the long duration is intentional, not a defect.

Time has become part of the cleaning process.